I couldn’t stand to stay inside today so I set out to discover something, anything, new on highway 44. Charles led the way and off to Rimrock Hwy we went. It’s called Rimrock highway for a reason you know. Both to the south and norther, flashing through the trees are towering limestone ridges and cliffs carved by Rapid Creek over the years. I haven’t spent much time on Rimrock Hwy (44) except for visiting Black Hills Caverns and Crystal Cave while on my way to Rochford, SD. I thought I would have to dig a little in order to find anything worthwhile but underneath it all I knew there was something magical about these giant cliffs. Read More…

Posted under Off the Beaten Path, Outdoors, Videos

I love a little mystery, especially if it has anything to do with history.  The historical marker near the parking lot of Halley Park is titled “Rapid City Founder Camp Site”.  I stumbled upon the marker a couple of years ago, it says

“Near a perpendicular sandstone cliff a short distance North of here and across Rapid Creek was the first camp of those hardy pioneers who founded Rapid City.  Here John R. Brennan….(listing 10 others) made their camp on Feb. 24, 1876, and the name of Brennan, where he carved it in the sandstone cliff, is still to be seen….”

Now if that isn’t an invitation for the adventurous type to stomp right on over the creek in search of the inscription, I don’t know what is!  Of course, I didn’t do it right away because I thought…’pffft, if that is true I certainly would’ve heard about it before now.  After all I grew up in Rapid City!’

Well today was a new day and I decided to throw a beautiful Friday evening to the adventurous winds and take Charles to find the camp site.  We drove over Rapid Creek on the small bridge near the back 9 of the executive golf course to avoid a long trek around the creek on foot and found a parking space.  We started down the well worn 4 wheel drive trail to “M Hill” or Cowboy Hill, and kept an eye out for a ‘perpendicular cliff.  Read More…

Posted under Off the Beaten Path, Outdoors

As I begin to relate my experience at Old MacDonald’s Petting Farm, a quick stop as we head into the thick of South Dakota’s Black Hills, I must confess: I underestimated the pigs. It’s just that they looked so unimpressive as we watched them eat in their pen - shoving their snouts full into the dirt to get a nibble of the hay, that thin line of drool bubbling at the side of their mouths. And then it didn’t help when they all fell asleep in the starting gate as the time for the pig races approached.

Pig Races!

I had heard the pig races were “funny” and so I was expecting a gloriously amusing disaster - pigs sleeping at the word go, running in the wrong direction, a combination pig race, greased pig contest. Boy, was I wrong. Thirty seconds before the race began, those pigs woke up and practically knocked down the starting gate, so eager were they to drink the Kool-Aid at the end. And then they all sprinted around that track so fast I barely realized what was happening. Well, maybe not “they all” - the one named Sausegawea was willing to drink the mud puddle instead of the Kool-aid to avoid sprinting the last 15 feet. My expectation, of course, reveals my lack of farming experience, and it’s folks like me who are the prime targets for Old MacDonald’s Petting Farm: folks who didn’t go to many state fairs growing up and who are even a bit nervous the first time we let the goats eat food out of our hands. There’s no need to be nervous, of course, and even my daughter figured that out before we left - she was willing to pet a rabbit, a sheep, and a goat (This is the girl who, when smaller, took five minutes to build up the courage to touch a dandelion). Petting or feeding an animal is a simple pleasure, I am aware, but looking back to it, I’m pleased that we enjoyed it as much as we did, pleased that we’re not jaded so much that we miss the thrill of creatures up close.

My only regret is that I underestimated the pigs. Don’t make the same mistake I did - and if you’re betting, go with the little one. He’s quicker than you think.

Quick Look:

Where it is: Hwy 16 just before you get to Rockerville (if coming from Rapid City) and just under 15 minutes from Rapid City, South Dakota. It’s on the way to Mount Rushmore, which makes it an early stop on the SmartAlec blue route. See the map for more.

Cost: Adults: $9; Seniors: $8; Children over 2yrs: $6; Children under 2: Free  (2008)

How much time: Leave yourself two hours and most of the kids will be persuaded to leave without getting grumpy. That way you’re also sure to catch a pig race.

Works well with: Since it’s on the way to Mount Rushmore, this can be a nice stop to satiate the kids’ interest for the day. It also can be a quicker stop than places like Reptile Gardens or Bear Country, which could allow you to do more when you leave, like attractions in the Hill City or Keystone area, which are each only about 15 minutes further down the road. If you’re spending a quiet day without too many activities, consider following SmartAlec’s directions to the Stratobowl Rim Trail - a short hike that begins about 200 yards from the Old MacDonald parking lot.

Best time to go: Anytime, really, since the animals don’t settle into a lethargy that will ruin your experience and the pig races take place every 90 minutes. The grounds are generally unshaded, though, so if the sun is a concern you may want to avoid the mid-day heat.
Highlights:

• The pig races: Don’t miss them!
  

  Kid with baby goat

• The tameness of animals: After visiting the potentially charging buffalo in Custer or the predators of Reptile Gardens and Bear Country, it’s great to be somewhere where a kid can con a goat into climbing on his back.
• Sanitation: Hand-washing stations are set up in a couple places, making it easy to get those little fingers clean before heading off to lunch.

Good to know:

• Kids even two years old have to pay for entrance.
• Kids under two might get frustrated when you don’t let them touch anything, and you probably do not want them to touch anything, since they generally can’t keep their fingers out of their mouths.

Posted under Attractions

Grizzly enclosure

The last time we visited Bear Country, we had the good fortune of going during feeding time, which occurs daily at 9:00am. Sitting in the safety of our van, we watched Tim, a veteran employee of Bear Country, sling frozen hunks of meat over a 20 foot fence into the mountain lion enclosure. The back of his pickup was full of this meat, a fact well known by the black bears and timber wolves that were creeping up behind him. After a few steaks, Tim grabbed a six foot pole from the bed of the pickup, stepped aggressively towards the wolves and bears, and swung it widely. The predators leaped back, and he returned to the steaks, tossing a few more to the lions before flinging one to the nearest bear and jumping back into the cab of his pickup. With Tim gone, the animals stopped playing nice, and the steak’s recipient ended up losing his prize to a relative when he chased off the wolves. Satisfied, we drove on, thrilled that the spectacle had occurred only 20 feet from our van.

Such is the thrill of Bear Country, and while not every trip through the drive-through park is as exciting as ours, it’s always a thrill to have your way blocked by a black bear and to see an arctic wolf in person.

The quick look:

Where it is: On Hwy 16 about 12 minutes outside Rapid City, on the way to Mt. Rushmore. See the map for more.

How much time: Most people take around 2 hours to soak in the park and enjoy it thoroughly. If you are one for loitering in gift shops, add plenty more. A café is on the premises if you run into lunch.

Cost: $15 adults, $8 for kids, $12 for seniors, with a max. of $55 per vehicle (2008 price). See their website for the most current prices.

Best time to go: Mornings, when the animals are more active and the traffic in the park is lighter

Bear hiding in the grass

Works well when coupled with: It’s on the way to Mt. Rushmore, so it can go well with the big attraction. The Smart Alec takes you to Mt. Rushmore and if you’re in for a long day of driving, you could tackle the Needles and Iron Mountain Road. We’d recommend going slower, however, which is why some folks like to pair Bear Country with Reptile Gardens. Even then, though, if you like these places, it might be better to save the second round of animal watching for another day.

Highlights:

• 

  Babyland Bears climb tree

  Babyland: The walk-through area where you can watch the bear cubs up close, as well as otters, a grizzly bear, and more.

• Feeding time: if you can get there when we did, by 9:00, you could be in for a show, and even if you miss the actual feeding, the animals are still quite active around that time.
• Smart Alec: We’ve crafted a full audio tour through the park, detailing animals and explaining the history of the attraction. It’s like riding with the owner in your vehicle.

Good to know:

• Leave your road-rage tendencies at the gate, traffic can be slow in the park.
• No matter how badly you want to open them, windows need to stay closed.
• Admission to the park can add up, though the max is $55 a vehicle. We would advise looking into discount opportunities (like a discount card, which pays off if you’re planning on hitting a lot of attractions) and leaving plenty of time to soak in your money’s worth.

Posted under Attractions

Stratowbowl Rim

Last year I discovered or re-discovered the Stratobowl via the Stratobowl rim trail. I had forgot how big of a deal this place was back in its day. I followed Hwy 16w South of Rapid City and while listening to my SmartAlec, I stopped at the suggested trailhead just past the gas station on the right.  It’s about 2 miles past Bear Country USA.  I got out and walked the gravel trail or fire access road for an easy rolling 1 mile to the lookout over the giant sinkhole. I forgot how huge it was and how far down it goes. The amazing story of how stratosphere history was made here is told in giant concrete tablets (8 ft.) that stick out of the ground near the lookout. It was easy to picture giant helium filled balloons launching into the sky…14 miles to set the record back in the 1930’s and 50’s. I spent probably about 45 minutes just looking around and then I took a different route as I returned to the highway.

Charles, my dog

I walked the rim and took in many, many more different lookouts along the way. It was great because I brought along Charles, my dog, and he couldn’t get enough of exploring the wild and wooly forest. I take all my friends there now and it’s become a favorite local spot for me and my growing circle of adventurers. Follow this link to check out the SmartAlec map and use it to get an idea of it’s location and even get directions. Have fun!

Posted under Off the Beaten Path, Tips and Tidbits

lose something?

I don’t know how long the gentleman doing the snake and alligator shows at Reptile Gardens (located at the Rapid City edge of South Dakota’s Black Hills) has been doing what he does, but if he tires of it, a visitor would never know. So good is he, that when my family shared our Reptile highlights at dinner, I had to admit that he was mine. And why not? The poor guy stuck his hand into an alligator’s mouth for my entertainment . . . three times! And then to interest us more fully, he taught us about crocodiles while standing in the their pit, vulnerable to the bugger who sneaked up behind him and nipped at his sneaker. That would have been enough to drive me into retirement, but he was planning on doing it again a couple hours later.

The rest of the family’s favorites shows the range of fun at Reptile Gardens. My daughters’ favorite part was playing in the giant sandbox - no snakes hidden inside - and my wife’s was this turtle that kept trucking around the perimeter of his little enclosure, never stopping, so that our daughter could run ahead of him, peek through the fence (which was only a foot or so high) and yell, “Here he comes!”

On our SmartAlec tour we tell the story of Earl Brockelsby and the founding of Reptile Gardens, which illustrates how these folks are not rookies in this tourism business, but they deserve a ton of credit for doing what they do so well. From the gardens (which alone are worth the price of admission), to the 120 year old giant turtle, Methuselah, to the 15 1/2 foot long alligator, Maniac, to tropical birds resting before guests in the Sky Dome, this attraction truly captures everyone’s attention.

Look ma

The Quick Look

Where it is: On Hwy 16, about 12 minutes outside Rapid City on the way to Mount Rushmore. It is at the beginning of the Smart Alec Blue Route. See the map for more on where it is.

How much time: It will take almost two hours if you aim to see all three shows, but it is easy to spend three or four hours before remembering to check your watch.

Works well when paired with: Something the grown ups want to do, like Mount Rushmore. The fun should resound long enough to last the kids until evening. Many people pair it with Bear Country, but that tends to make too long a day of animal watching for most folks.

Best time to go: Mornings, before the sun gets too hot and the crowds get their thickest. If you run into lunch, there are multiple places to eat.

Cost: Adults $13.50; Seniors $12; Children $8.50; Four & under: Free (2008 season). If you’re pinching pennies, beware of the gift-shop - it’s items range from classy to ridiculous, and if you’re human, you’ll find something you’ll want to buy . . .

Pet my snake

Highlights:

• The flowers - not only outside, but inside the dome there is an impressive tropical flower display.
• The shows - there’s one for snakes, one for alligators, and one for birds of prey, and they occur at regularly scheduled times.
• Admission is good for a week for visitors and for the year for locals, which means if the family doesn’t have the time or patience to sit through all the shows or displays, you can come again later at no extra charge.

Keep in Mind:

• Most of the facility is outdoors, and while there is plenty of shade under which to hide, you’ll need sunscreen to play it safe, and a hot day will feel hot.
• The shows can be long for some young children, but so entertaining for adults that they’re hard to leave. My wife was willing to miss half the alligator show to play in the sandbox.

Posted under Attractions

These guys rule, and by guys I mean owners, Bridgette and John!  Although in the beginning I may have pushed SmartAlec GPS Tours onto them they have grown to be great cohorts in downtown Rapid City.  They have fantastic travel gear including maps of the world, hammocks, headlamps, suitcases and kid carriers.  I’m looking forward to getting a kid carrier myself.

This store is truly local and has a personal touch that is hard to beat.  They will be our host location for check-in during the Christmas Tour of Lights event that we put on in December.  We’ll be ransacking the place with our crazy christmas spirit and maybe even a few twinkly lights.

They are located easily downtown Rapid City, right next to the Firehouse Brewing Co.  Visit there website for details, www.roamnaround.com.

Have fun out there!

Posted under Places

I just can’t get enough of the fall colors this year.  Maybe the summer went to fast but they are just fascinating to me.  One of the secret outdoor local favorites, yet still visited very little in comparison to Spearfish Canyon, is Rochford Road.

Rochford Rd. is about 30 minutes outside of Rapid City on Hwy 385, just past Trout Haven.  Trout Haven claims to have fished over 1 million fish from its pond, now THAT’s some serious spawning.  Anyways, just past there, traveling north towards Deadwood, you find Rochford, Rd.  Starting as paved asphalt but turning to gravel within 1/2 mile, it’s a fantastic spin into the intimate nature of the central Black Hills.  The road meanders easily over hills and around the bends highlighting great access points for the 4 wheeler fans (pick me!), hikers and bikers.

Waterfall near Rochford, SD

The reason I ventured onto Rochford Road was to show my family a sweet surprise I had accidentally discovered while 4 wheeling last summer.  While zipping on and off roads, my brothers and I were of course looking for a few splashes and BAM, opportunity knocked near Rapid Creek, just off Rochford Rd. near the Mickelson trail.  We gunned it and 2 out of 3 of us made it through.  My brother Danny stalled his 4 wheeler mid flow so we figured out how to pull him out and push him into the flat creek side nearby.  “It’s  about time for a break anyway” we said in consolation.  As we rested we heard a pretty strong gush of water coming from behind the trees so we gathered our lunch and walked up the creek towards the big pine tree.  WOW!  There was a 3 tier waterfall right there!  You can’t even see it from the road, and just barely from the Mickelson Trail.  It was a cool, inviting sight for that June afternoon celebrating our (I’m a twin) 33rd birthday.

So this fall I had to show my wife this awesome discovery.  You should check it out too!  Bring a picnic and maybe even a gold pan to play in the creek with.  There isn’t a bridge so bring some sandals to wade in the water.  You should be able to find a shallow crossing point.   If you really want to make a day of it, bring your bikes and travel from Rochford down the Mickelson Trail to this waterfall, it’s absolutely breathtaking in the fall of the year. Try late September or early October, around the Custer State Park Buffalo Round-up dates.

Have some fun and remember… never miss an opportunity to glance around the corner, you never know.

Photo Credit:  Ken Jones

Posted under Off the Beaten Path, Outdoors

Time: 5:00 pm

Location:  Lovers Leap Trail Head behind the School House west of the Game Lodge in Custer State Park

Length: 3 Miles

Recently I spent a day seeing some of the best fall colors the Black Hills has had in a few years. I spent the day with the best adventurer I know, my brother.  We took mountain bikes! I rented mine in Rapid City from Two Wheeler Dealer, a great locally owned bike shop that rents bikes for about $29 for 24 hours.

My brother had a friend that said, Lover’s Leap isn’t too difficult and it’s a ‘loop’ trail so we wouldn’t have to back-track. Sounds good to us!  We didn’t read the trail head sign for difficulty because, of course, we had a ‘friend’.

Turns out said ‘friend’ has never attempted the first 1000 feet of the trail or any part of the trail for that matter.  The beginning was all up hill, not just a little incline but a stutter step incline with rocks.  We just pushed our bikes up.  I admit I was internally slandering said ‘friend’ because this was not the easy ride I’d hoped for.  After we arrived at the to top of the ridge about 25 minutes later, we handled the ride from there on.  It’s not for complete newbies mind you, but definitely a challenging trail for the adventurous type.  Another 20 minutes up the trail we arrived to the spectacular view!  Lover’s Leap is awesome!  See the video here after we arrived. Legend has it that two Native American forbidden lovers jumped to their death from here.

After we spent some time taking pictures and watching the sun start to set we realized we had better get down the hill before its dark.  We had made the mistake before of watching the sun set from Harney Peak and we hiked down in the dark, NOT recommended.  FYI- Bushes and boulders look like buffalo in the dark!

The ride down was absolutely fantastic.  It’s VERY steep at first but the last mile or two is sweet!  The trail pretty much follows a babbling brook, part of the Galena Creek drainage, and winds through the beautiful deciduous forest.  We loved it even though you have to cross the creek a few times but lucky for us the little rock bridges were still there.  If the sun would’ve stayed around we surely would have parked the bikes and just soaked in the babbling brook and quaking aspen!

The biggest challenge for us on the way up was the beginning ascent to the ridge.  The biggest challenge going down was avoiding fresh buffalo chips on the trail.  I admit that we were hollering most the way down “Hellooooo Buffaloooo” to insure that any waiting bulls around the next blind dark corner new we were coming. Fortunately, there were no bulls on the way down.  We didn’t stumble across a lone bull until we free wheeled up to our car to surprise a lone bull waiting for us…about 20 feet away….in the dark, NOT A BUSH!

Discover Lover’s Leap it’s an awsome trip, especially with a guy like my brother..thanks Danny!

Rock

Links: Mountain Bikers learn more here

Posted under Off the Beaten Path